Davy's at St James's

The entrance to this westernmost branch of Davy's, the predominantly City-based chain of wine bars, can be found in the archway at the entrance to Crown Passage on King Street. The labyrinthine basement establishment, formerly the Crown Passage Vaults, has a long narrow drinking area in front of the bar, intimate dining tables beyond and small separate rooms at either end as well as a formal dining room for functions on the ground floor above. Stone flagged floors, dark wood fittings, bottle racks and candlelight make this an attractive dive, with an emphasis is on food and wine. The one cask ale, branded "Davy's Old Wallop", is served in metal tankards, but the two keg beers, both from Meantime, and the keg cider come more conventionally in glasses. The barmen, traditionally dressed in white shirts and ties, offer an efficient and helpful service to a largely besuited clientele. There is an attractive menu and its prices, and those for the beverages, are reasonable for the area.